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Your bike fitting is scheduled for Tuesday September 16 at 11h at San Juan de Gaztelugatxe parking.
Please be aware that Spaniards follow a very particular routine in terms of their daily meals, and this is often strictly enforced by restaurant opening hours, especially in small towns!
You can expect restaurants to be open for lunch from approximately 1:30pm – 4pm. Many places will offer a menú del día: a set menu with 2/3 options for each course, usually including a drink, bread and dessert or coffee. Remember that lunch is the main meal of the day in Spain.
Dinnertime in Spain is any time from 8pm onwards. Dinner in Spain is typically a lighter meal.
Basque cuisine is a vibrant and diverse culinary tradition that reflects the region’s rich culture and history. Located in the northern part of Spain and southwestern France, the Basque Country is known for its stunning landscapes and a strong connection to the sea and mountains, which greatly influence its gastronomy.
One of the most iconic aspects of Basque food is pintxos, which are small snacks typically served on a skewer or toothpick. These delightful bites can be found in bars throughout the region and often feature a variety of ingredients, such as seafood, meats, and vegetables, all beautifully presented.
Seafood plays a significant role in Basque cuisine, with dishes like bacalao a la vizcaína (salted cod in a rich red sauce) and chipirones (baby squid) being popular choices. The region is also famous for its txangurro, a spider crab dish that showcases the freshness of local seafood.
Meat lovers will enjoy traditional dishes like txuleta, a thick, juicy steak often grilled over an open flame, and cordero al horno, a succulent roast lamb. The use of high-quality, locally sourced ingredients is a hallmark of Basque cooking.
When it comes to drinks, the Basque Country is renowned for its txakoli, a slightly sparkling white wine that pairs perfectly with seafood and pintxos. Another popular beverage is sidra, or Basque cider, which is made from local apples and has a unique, tangy flavor. For those who enjoy a good cocktail, the kalimotxo, a mix of red wine and cola, is a beloved choice among locals.
Overall, Basque food and drinks offer a delightful experience that reflects the region’s unique identity and culinary heritage. Whether you’re enjoying a casual pintxo at a bar or savoring a traditional meal, the flavors of the Basque Country are sure to leave a lasting impression!
On egin — enjoy your meal!
Click here for our packing suggestions for a self-guided bike tour.
Click here for our recommendations for cycling safely and legally in Spain.
Click here for our recommendations on what to do if you experience mechanical issues with your bike during your tour.
The Basque Country is a bilingual region of Spain, so expect to hear both Spanish (castellano) and Basque (euskera)! Almost everyone you meet will speak Spanish, but in the smaller villages you are likely to come across people whose first language is Basque, and all official signs will be in both languages.
Here are a few basic words which will likely earn you a smile in the smaller Basque-speaking villages:
kaixo (kai-sho) – hello
agur – goodbye
eskerrik asko – thank you
mesedez – please
egun on– good morning/day
Monday September 15: Arrival in Bilbao
Accommodation: Calle Elkano 30 (your airbnb)
Ongi etorri! Welcome to the Basque Country and the start of an amazing tour!
Click here for our google maps recommendations!
Bilbao’s most famous attraction, the Guggenheim Museum (open Tue – Sun, 10am – 7pm), needs to be top of your list, even if you only visit the external artworks that form part of this magnificent building! Take a selfie with “Puppy”, Jeff Koons’ colourful dog sculpture made from living flowers, “Maman”, Louise Bourgeois’ enormous spider sculpture, and Anish Kapoor’s “The tall tree and the eye”.
If classical art is more to your taste, don’t miss the Bilbao Fine Arts Museum (open Mon – Sat 10am – 8pm and Sun 10am – 3pm. Closed Tue), which exhibits pieces dating back to the 13th century and has an important collection of Basque art through the centuries.
For the best views in the city, take the cable car up Mt Artxanda, and enjoy a coffee or dinner with an amazing view at hilltop restaurant El Txakoli.
Football fans will love the museum and stadium tour at San Mamés, the brand-new home of Athletic Bilbao, the world’s only all-Basque football team!
There are endless dining options in Bilbao: if you’re looking for a Michelin star experience to celebrate the start of your adventure, you can find a list of restaurants here; alternatively, if you haven’t yet had a Basque cider house experience you can enjoy steak and unlimited cider at Bilbao Urban Sagardotegi (open daily from 10:30am) or Galtzagorri Sagardotegia (open daily from 11am).
Another fantastic dining option is the Mercado de la Ribeira (open daily from 8am), a historic market building converted into a modern gastromarket with an impressive range of eateries.
If you’d prefer a more relaxed dinner, you can enjoy the many pintxos bars of Bilbao’s old quarter! Some of our favourites are Gure Toki, Café Bar Bilbao, Irrintzi, Bar Charly and Victor Montés.
Tuesday September 16: Bilbao – Lekeitio
Route: 32 km/ 19.9 miles
Elevation: +356m/ 1180 feet
Alojamiento: Hotel Silken Palacio Uribarren
***The hotel has a pool and a jacuzzi. No other spa services***
After a short transfer from Bilbao, we’ll visit San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, a spectacular islet crowned by a small chapel and connected to the mainland by a staircase with more than 200 steps. You’ll arrive a bit early to have your bike-fitting and then you can visit Gaztelugatze. You have reserved tickets at 11.50h (click to see the tickets).
From this breathtaking starting point, we’ll cycle along the rugged Basque coastline to Bermeo, a lively fishing port, and Mundaka, famous for its perfect left-hand wave and stunning natural beauty.
It’s worth making a stop just after leaving Mundaka to take in the views at the Portuondo viewpoint. Then, as you continue on the road you will pass the Ekoetxea Urdaibai (open Tue – Sun, 10am – 7pm), an exhibition centre dedicated to the biodiversity of the area.
Today’s route follows the Urdaibai estuary, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and one of the most richly diverse natural landscapes in the whole of the Basque Country, including a wetland that is a birdwatcher’s paradise. Those interested in ornithology can visit the Urdaibai Bird Center (open Sat/Sun, 11am – 7pm Nov – May, Daily Jun – Oct), while history fanatics can take a detour to the Caves of Santimamiñe (open daily 9:30am – 2:30pm), which boast paintings dating back to the Late Paleolithic. Although the paintings themselves cannot be visited in order to prevent their deterioration, the visitor centre offers excellent 3D virtual tours.
As you continue on heading inland, you’ll come to the town of Guernica, made famous by the Picasso painting which depicts the bombing of the town by the Luftwaffe during the Spanish Civil War, considered to be the first deliberate attack on civilians in military history. We highly recommend a stop here to visit the ceramic representation of Picasso’s painting, a visit to the Peace Museum (open Sun & Mon 10am – 2:30pm and Tue – Sat 10am – 6pm, closed Mondays Nov – Mar) to better understand the local history, and a visit to the magnificent Casa de las Juntas (open daily 10am – 2pm/4pm – 6pm) to visit the original Tree of Guernica, and see the stained-glass ceiling depicting important scenes in Basque history. If all that sightseeing has given you an appetite, we recommend lunch at 1000 Kolorau (open Wed – Mon 11am – 6pm).
After leaving Guernica you have a nice ride up the other side of the estuary before continuing along the hilly, coastal roads all the way to Lekeitio.
Click here for our google maps recommendations!
During your visit to Lekeitio, don’t miss a stroll through the “new” harbor, Txatxo Kaia, which in fact dates back to the 19th century. This pier is named after a local sailor who accompanied Christopher Columbus on his voyage to the Americas. Today, the colorful fishermen’s houses that surround it have retained their original charm, though in the past they looked directly out onto the open sea.
The town’s history goes back much further. In the 14th century, Lekeitio was protected by a stone wall, built both to defend it from attacks and to guard against the fires that often swept through it. Some remains of this ancient fortification can still be seen today.
One of Lekeitio’s most remarkable landmarks is the 15th-century Basilica of Santa María. Its Gothic altarpiece is considered one of the most valuable in the entire region—a true treasure of Basque religious heritage.
When the tide is low, a natural pathway emerges across the bay leading to Garraitz Island, also known as San Nicolás Island, named after the hermitage that once stood there. Walking to the island is an unforgettable experience, offering spectacular coastal views that stretch all the way to Zarautz. Be sure to check the tide schedule before setting out.
Finally, we recommend wandering along Arranegi Street, where you can admire the contrast between the elegant 16th- and 17th-century mansions and the humble yet charming traditional fishermen’s houses. It’s a walk that perfectly captures the spirit of Lekeitio: history, the sea, and beauty in every corner.
Wednesday September 17: Lekeitio- Zumaia
Route: 23.6 miles
Elevation: 2665 feet
Accommodation: Hotel Talasoterapia
***Lots of spa-type possibilities available here. You can look here for more info. They have a bunch of treatments available but I can’t seem to find the PDF in English. If you’re interested in a massage here let me know and I can translate the PDF. Click here for the Spanish PDF.***
As you leave Lekeitio you continue along the coast to the pretty fishing village of Ondarroa, which is an interesting cultural experience because it’s one of the places with most Basque language speakers in the country: The small town also boasts a bridge designed by prestigious architect Santiago Calatrava. We recommend a lunch stop here at Sutargi Jatetxea (open Tue – Sun 12pm – 10:30pm), which specialises in kokotxa (fish cheeks), a local delicacy, or Batzoki Ondarroa (open Wed – Mon 1pm – 3:30pm), which boasts a terrace with beautiful sea views.
The next spot to visit is the fishing town of Deba, where we recommend making a brief stop to visit the 15th century Church of Santa Maria, which boasts a well-known polychromatic façade.
From here, your ride continues along the coastal path all the way to the charming coastal town of Zumaia where you´ll be in for a treat when you make it to the local beach to see the flysch.
Your hotel tonight boasts fabulous ocean views and has a relaxing spa, where you can loosen up your muscles after a long week in the saddle (spa treatments not included in tour price).
Click here for our google maps recommendations!
Zumaia, a picturesque coastal town in Spain’s Basque Country, offers a rich tapestry of natural beauty, historical landmarks, and cultural experiences.
Itzurun Beach: Famous for its dramatic flysch cliffs and as a filming location for Game of Thrones, Itzurun Beach is a haven for surfers and nature enthusiasts. The unique geological formations are best appreciated during low tide.
Flysch Cliffs & Geological Walk: Embark on a walk from Talaimendi Hill (Zarautz) to Algorri Point (Zumaia) to witness the stunning flysch formations—alternating layers of sandstone and shale that tell the Earth’s geological history. Guided tours and boat trips are available for a deeper understanding.
Wander through narrow medieval streets adorned with centuries-old buildings. Highlights include:
For a hearty and traditional dinner after your day of cycling, we recommend Algorri (open 11am – 8pm, Thu – Tue) a Basque cider house where you can enjoy a delicious meal of steak and house cider, with fabulous views, or Restaurante Ubera (open 10am – 11pm, Wed – Sun), which serves a changing menu of seasonal local fare.
Thursday September 18 : Zumaia to Tolosa
Route: 30.4 miles
Elevation: 2,667 feet
Accommodation: Hotel Bide Bide
***No Spa at the hotel***
Say goodbye to the cliffs and the ocean, and get ready to head inland! The first recommended stop is in Getaria, famous for producing txakoli white wine and boasting its own Protected Denomination of Origin status. A favourite of top chef Antony Bourdain, Getaria boasts famous seafood restaurants such as Elkano (open Tues – Sat 1pm – 3:15pm/Fri & Sat 8:30pm – 10:15pm) and Kaia Kaipe (open Tues – Sat 1pm – 3:30pm/Fri & Sat 8pm – 10:30pm) Prior booking is essential for both.
Around Getaria, you will cycle through txakoli vineyards and past numerous bodegas, many of which offer visits upon prior appointment: Gaintza (Tue – Sat at 11:30am), Txomín Etxaniz (Mon – Sat 9am – 12pm) Ameztoi (Guided tours available Tue – Sat at 11am (Spring/Autumn), daily at 11am (Summer), Tastings daily 11am – 2pm).
Today is full of fun, and after a windy road along the coast you will come to the surfer haven of Zarautz, where you’ll enjoy spectacular views over the town and across to bay to the “mouse”: the mountain of San Antón, which is connected to the village of Getaria by a strip of land. We recommend that you make a stop to watch the surfers and have a drink at Hotel Restaurante Karlos Arguiñano (open daily from 8am), owned by a famous local chef and offering fabulous views of the beach.
From Zarautz, you head inland saying goodbye to the Basque coast heading towards the foothills of the Pyrenees. From there, you roll inland through Aia, where the climb offers panoramic views of the Cantabrian Sea and the lush Pagoeta Natural Park. The route then descends into the Oria Valley before reaching Villabona, a small town with cozy cafés perfect for a snack break. Continuing south, you follow scenic country roads toward Tolosa, a historic market town famed for its old stone bridges and Baroque church.
Tolosa is a cute little town surrounded by typical Basque countryside. We recomend a stroll along the Oria River and through the historic center of Tolosa to see its arcaded streets, old stone bridges, and squares like Plaza Euskal Herria. Look for the Santa María Church, a beautiful Gothic-Baroque mix.
You could also consider visiting the TOPIC Puppet Museum & Theatre which is ainternational center that has exhibitions, performances, and workshops about puppeteering. You can also check out the market stalls, unfortunately the weekly market takes place on Saturday.
Aviva’s suggestion: Orbela Taberna. I still remember these beautiful, creative pintxos. A well-run local place with high quality ingredients, well prepared pintxos and a great wine selection.
Ama (only open for lunch on Thursday from 1-3-30pm) is a one-Michelin-star restaurant that focuses on seasonal, locally sourced Basque produce, offering an elegant tasting menu that changes weekly to reflect what’s fresh from nearby farms, markets, and the sea.
Ilargi is another great choice for dinner, with a very dedicated staff.
Tolosa is also very well known for their beans (alubias de Tolosa). If you see any dish with beans go for it. It’s the most local specialty.
Your hotel has a great restaurant as well.
Friday September 19: Tolosa to Pamplona
Route: 44.8 miles
Elevation: 4039 feet
Accommodation: Hotel Yoldi
***No spa in the hotel. I can definitely find a massage in town if you want.*** But I think there’s lots to see, drink and eat in Pamplona***
As you head out of Tolosa you’ll pass through Ibarra, a small village that is famous for their green chili peppers. These are commonplace across Spain. Aviva recommends getting some pre-ride power by stopping at Bar Txumitxa and trying some of the pickled peppers or the fried ones (the peppers are called piparras). Or, if you’re even hungrier you could have a few gildas (typically an anchovie, an olive and-or pickled onion and a piparra all served on a toothpick)!
After the possible snack you’ll continue rolling southeast along quiet country roads toward Berastegi, where the terrain begins to rise into the rolling foothills. The climb into Leitza takes you through forested slopes, past grazing sheep and stone farmhouses, with sweeping views of the surrounding valleys. Leitza itself is a charming Navarrese town (Aviva says that it’s worth a slight detour to see the main square), known for its traditional pelota court and well-preserved old quarter. From here, you join the Plazaola Greenway, a converted railway line that threads through tunnels, across old viaducts, and alongside lush riverbanks. The gradient is gentle and mostly downhill toward Pamplona, so you can enjoy the scenery without pushing hard. The combination of rural Basque villages, mountain greenery, and the peaceful, car-free final stretch makes this ride both scenic and relaxing. And, now you can run through the streets of Pamplona like you’re a bull!
There’s a lot to see and do in Pamplona! Click here for our google maps recommendations. Here are some recommendations:
Walk the Camino de Santiago route through the city by following the yellow arrows and scallop shells as the famous pilgrimage trail winds through the old town and past key landmarks like the Cathedral and Plaza del Castillo.
Visit the Plaza de Toros and learn about the Running of the Bulls
Explore Spain’s second-largest bullring and its small but informative museum, especially if you’re interested in the history of the San Fermín festival.
Stroll along the medieval city walls and fortifications on the well-preserved Renaissance-era walls which afford panoramic views and a peaceful walk through history, particularly around the Ciudadela (Citadel) and Fortín de San Bartolomé.
Explore the old town and sample local pintxos while wandering the narrow streets of the Casco Antiguo, stopping at traditional bars for local wines and small bites in lively spots like Calle Estafeta and Calle San Nicolás.
Visit the Cathedral of Santa María la Real which is more than just a Gothic cathedral as it includes a stunning Neoclassical façade, cloisters, and the Diocesan Museum inside.
Saturday September 20 : Pamplona to SOS Rey Catolico
Route: 23.6 miles
Elevation: 2132 feet
Accommodation: Parador Sos del Rey Catolico
***No spa available***
After the first 4 days, today will be a bit more relaxing. The morning will start with a quick transfer to Lumbier canyon where you’ll ride a short gravel path through the Hoz de Lumbier, a dramatic limestone gorge carved by the Irati River. The road hugs the river, with sheer cliffs rising on either side and, if you’re lucky, you may spot vultures or griffon eagles soaring above. It’s a relatively gentle ride, but the scenery is so striking it almost feels cinematic.
From Lumbier, you head southeast toward Javier Castle, the birthplace of Saint Francis Xavier. The climb up to the castle is gradual but steady, passing through rolling farmland, pine forests, and small Navarrese villages. The castle itself sits atop a hill, offering panoramic views of the surrounding valleys—an ideal photo stop and a chance to explore its historic rooms and chapel.
After the castle, you descend toward Sos del Rey Católico, a medieval town with cobbled streets, stone houses, and an unmistakable fortress vibe. The final leg to the Parador of Sos is a gentle approach along scenic lanes. The Parador itself is a beautifully restored historic building, perfect for winding down after a day of cycling—its terrace views are exceptional, overlooking the town and distant hills.
Dinner reserved (prix-fixe menu for 38€/person) at 8.30pm @ the hotel!
In Sos del Rey Católico, the entire town feels like a living museum—its medieval core is compact enough to explore entirely on foot. Here’s what’s worth seeing within the town itself:
Birthplace of Ferdinand II of Aragon (“El Rey Católico”) – The house where King Ferdinand was born in 1452, now a small museum with period furnishings and exhibits about his life.
Church of San Esteban – A Romanesque-Gothic church with beautiful stonework and a notable 14th-century cloister; also offers panoramic views from its hilltop position.
Medieval Streets & Arched Passageways – Wander the narrow lanes like Calle Fernando el Católico and Calle Mayor to soak in the preserved medieval urban layout.
Portal de Zaragoza & City Walls – Original gateways to the fortified town, giving a sense of its defensive history.
Jewish Quarter (Barrio de la Judería) – A small but atmospheric section of narrow alleys recalling the town’s multicultural past.
We highly recommend you eat in the restaurant of your hotel. We’re happy to help you with a reservation. Please let me know.
Sunday September 21: SOS Rey Catolico to Jaca
Route: 16.6 miles
Elevation: 2463 feet
Accommodation: Eurostars Reina Felicia
***The hotel has an indoor and outdoor pool.***
Another day with two very different options, hence why I prepared two routes.
The first route starts in Sos del Rey Católico and you descend through rolling farmland toward Undués de Lerda, a quiet hilltop village with stone houses and panoramic views of the Aragón landscape. The road is narrow and peaceful, winding through dry hills and past old shepherd paths. From there, the route toward Bagüés is more remote—this is sparsely populated, with open stretches of countryside and occasional views toward the Sierra de Santo Domingo. It’s a great section for that feeling of solitude on the bike.
Continuing on, you pass through undulating terrain dotted with small chapels and olive groves before reaching the valleys that lead toward Navarra. The approach to Puente la Reina brings a change in scenery—greener fields, vineyards, and signs of the Camino de Santiago. Once in town, you can cross the iconic 11th-century stone bridge over the Arga River, a highlight for both cyclists and pilgrims. Once you make it to Puente la Reina we recommend these two authentic restaurants for a filling menú de día. Meson de la Reina or Meson Anaia.
The other route involves a transfer from SOS Rey Catolico to los Mallos de Riglos, which are most definitely worth a visit. You start beneath the towering Mallos de Riglos, those sheer red conglomerate rock walls famous with climbers. I know you’re not all fans of birds, but this vulture viewpoint is really impressive. I was there over 10 years ago and was wowed standing on the platform. This spot seems to be closed, but I hope the platform is still able to access. After you visit the Riglos, you’ll get on the bikes and the first stretch is a winding descent through the Gállego River valley, with the cliffs always in your rear-view mirror. The road rolls gently through open farmland and small Aragonese hamlets, with the Pyrenean foothills as a backdrop.
After crossing the plain, you begin the gradual climb toward Loarre, where the castle comes into view long before you arrive—a vast Romanesque fortress perched at 1,070 m, dominating the landscape. The final kilometers are a steady ascent with sweeping views over the Hoya de Huesca plains.
At the top, Loarre Castle (open everyday from 10am to 8pm) rewards the effort with one of the best-preserved medieval fortresses in Spain, complete with ramparts, towers, and breathtaking panoramas. The whole route is under 25 km, but the scenery and history make it feel epic. From Loarre you’ll get in the van and head to Jaca.
Jaca might not seem that large nor important but it’s one of the big towns in the (remote and rural) area. Jaca’s Ciudadela is a 16th-century fortress with moats, ramparts, cannons and deer (!!!). The Catedral de San Pedro is an 11th-century Romanesque cathedral with carved capitals, a cloister, and a historic crypt. The old town and Plaza de la Constitución feature cobbled streets lined with colorful facades, cafes, and shops, perfect for wandering. You can also enjoy strolling along the River Aragón, which has pleasant walks, picnic spots, and easy access to bike paths.
Sunday night is not a popular night to eat out as many have spent Sunday with their family and have eaten a lot!
However, there are options such as Restaurante Biarritz. This spot offers traditional Aragonese cuisine, including grilled meats and local specialties, in a warm and welcoming atmosphere.
Restaurante Cobarcho provides a modern take on Aragonese dishes, with a variety of tapas and main courses served in a contemporary setting. If you’re more after something casual we recommend trying some tapas bars, such as 19 Tapas y 500 Vinos. It’s a modern and cozy spot with over 500 wines by the glass, serving innovative tapas and dishes like confit suckling pig. La Tasca de Ana is a small, always-busy bar known for its homemade tapas such as ‘rodolfitos’ and ‘maites,’ offering traditional cazuelas in an authentic local atmosphere. La Vermutería is famous for its vinagrillos and mussels, featuring live music and wall art that create a unique tapas experience.
If you’re on a liquid diet this place has pretty good brews. And snacks!
Monday September 22: Jaca to Boltaña
Route: 37 miles
Elevation: 4486 feet
Accommodation: Monasteria de Boltaña
***This is what you’ve been waiting for. Spa, massage, you name it…***
Today you’re really in for a treat! You’ve got a challenging, yet stunning, ride through the most surreal Pyrenean landscapes. Starting in the quiet village of Yesero, the route descends towards Broto, set at the gateway to Ordesa National Park. From there, a steady climb leads to Fanlo, perched high on a plateau with sweeping mountain views. Aviva recommends a stop at As Fuebas de Patricio for a hearty meal (km 0 meat is their specialty. And the views are unbelievable. Take a seat on the terraze and enjoy!
After the possible feast the ride continues with exhilarating descents, and rolling terrain, through the Añisclo canyon, toward Puyarruego. From there you’ll be transferred to your hotel for tonight which is a beautifully restored 11th-century monastery overlooking the Ara River, now transformed into a luxury hotel that blends history with modern comfort. Its spa offers a serene wellness experience, featuring thermal circuits, massages, and treatments inspired by the natural surroundings of the Pyrenees.
Dinner reserved (prix-fixe menu for 30€/person) at 8.30pm @ the hotel!
In Boltaña, the Plaza Mayor and old town feature a quaint central square lined with historic stone houses and arcades, perfect for a leisurely stroll, local shops, and cafes. The Boltaña Castle is a medieval fortress overlooking the town (a bit run down), offering panoramic views of the Ara Valley and surrounding mountains. But I think that the spa at your 5* hotel might be your ideal afternoon.
We highly recommend the fine restaurant in the comfort of your hotel. Please let me know if I can help making a reservation.
Tuesday September 23 : Boltaña to Freixenet
Route: 24.3 miles OR 36.4 miles
Elevation: 1655 feet OR 3283 feet
Accommodation: Hotel Rural el forn de Freixenet
***The rural hotel offers a heated indoor swimming pool and a luxurious jacuzzi. You have private access to this just for the 3 of you.
After an intense day yesterday today is a bit more relaxed. You will start with a transfer to Aínsa, a medieval hilltop town in the Spanish Pyrenees, renowned for its beautifully preserved old quarter and impressive stone castle. Its cobbled streets, Romanesque church, and lively Plaza Mayor create a timeless atmosphere, while offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. From Ainsa you have 2 choices:
Alquézar is a picturesque medieval village in the Sierra de Guara, famous for its castle, stone houses, and winding cobbled streets. Surrounded by dramatic canyons and cliffs, it’s a hub for hiking, canyoning, and exploring the rugged beauty of the Vero River gorge. We recommend that you check out Las Pasarelas de Alquézar, a series of suspended walkways and metal footbridges that let you explore the dramatic Vero River gorge up close. The route winds along cliffs, over the turquoise river, and through rocky passages, offering stunning views of both the canyon and the medieval village above. The route is about 3km long, with approx. 180m of elevation gain. It’s meant as a slow meander to enjoy the scenery. For more info and tickets check here.
If you’re not up for the river walk I recommend heading up to the hill to see the collegiate church (colegiata in Spanish). Even if you don’t want to go in it’s still worth it for the views. You can walk around a bit in the main foyer.
After Alquezar you can have a siesta (Spanish nap) in the car on the ride to your rural hotel in Freixenet. You have the spa and dinner reserved in the rural hotel tonight. Enjoy the Spanish village experience!
Your very rural hotel has another spa that´s been reserved just for the three of you!
We recommend eating dinner in the hotel, it’s served at 9pm and it’s 30€.
Wednesday September 24: Freixenet to Ripoll
Route: 23.8 OR 30 miles
Elevation: 2381 feet OR 4355 feet
Accommodation: Trobada boutique hotel
***No spa at the hotel, massages available in town ***
Today we have 2 different choices:
The first option is to transfer to Cardona, a medieval town famous for its salt mountain and old mines, which you can visit before starting the ride. From here, the route follows quiet country backroads with very little traffic, winding through farmland and small villages on the way to Berga. About halfway, you’ll face a choice: keep things gentle by taking the direct valley route, which is relatively flat and makes for an easy, scenic spin, or tackle a mountain climb that rises above the valley. While climbing the Alt de Capolat, the scenery shifts from golden farmland and rolling hills to pine forests and high plateaus with sweeping views. At the summit, the landscape opens to wide horizons over the reservoir and the distant Pyrenees, making the effort worthwhile. The climb is steady but not too long, and at the top you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views of the Catalan countryside before descending into Berga.
The second option is to drive a bit farther north for a ride that feels more immersed in the foothills of the Pyrenees. Starting in Guardiola de Berguedà, the route follows a narrow, winding road with hardly any cars, tracing the course of the Llobregat River toward the picturesque village of La Pobla de Lillet. This is a charming place to pause for a coffee before continuing upwards to the Monastery of Sant Pere de Montgrony, an impressive Romanesque site surrounded by forested hills. From this high point, you’ll enjoy a long, flowing descent through mountain valleys toward Ripoll, passing through small hamlets and open landscapes. With its mix of climbs, history, and scenery, this route offers more challenge but also greater rewards. As noted on your RidewithGPS map, there are several good lunch and café stops along the way, perfect for refueling mid-ride.
In Ripoll you can visit the Monastery of Santa Maria (open until 7pm on Wednesday) with its stunning Romanesque portal and the nearby Scriptorium, where medieval manuscripts come to life. Meanwhile, The Ethnographic Museum (closes at 6pm on Wednesday) offers a fascinating look at local traditions and crafts. If you’re not tired, yet!, you could take a scenic walk along the rivers or on the historic Iron Route which both provide beautiful landscapes and a taste of the region’s industrial past.
Cafè Canaules offers traditional Catalan dishes with a modern twist in a cozy, historic setting. And, they’re open on Wednesday for dinner unlike most everywhere else!
Thursday September 25: Ripoll to Girona
Route: 33.5 OR 36.1 OR 35.4 miles
Elevation: 1530 OR 1707 OR 1777 feet
Accommodation: Hotel Ultonia Girona
***No spa at the hotel. However, Aroma Thai Girona, offers a cyclist massage. It comes very well recommended! I’d suggest reserving in advance especially if the 3 of you want the same massage. ***
There are 3 choices for today, and they’re all different.
The first option (greenway, an old train track made into a bike path) is on a nice little high-quality gravel path through the forest from Olot to Girona, not that many stops along the way. But you can have time to think, enjoy the shade and head down the path.
The second option is to start in Olot, we recommend heading up the Montsacopa Volcano. It’s smack dab in the city center and there is an accessible trail leading up to the crater with a 19th-century chapel on the rim, and panoramic views over Olot and the surrounding volcanic landscape. Also, you could check out La Fageda d’en Jordà which is an impressive forest of beech trees that have grown on top of lava.
The third option would be to stop in Olot (visit what you please) and then drive up to Castellfolit de la Roca. This is a unique small town that, in my opinion, is worth seeing. From Castellfolit you start biking until you reach Besalù which is a cute small town with a famous 12-century bridge. From Besalú you’re not far from the famous lake in Banyoles. Then the route continues to Girona.
Then, you should most definitely enjoy some free time exploring the beautiful city of Girona: the colourful houses that line the River Onyar, the views from the medieval city walls and the atmosphere of one of the best-preserved Jewish Quarters in the world.
Click here for our Google Maps list of recommendations in Girona.
El Call: Girona is famous for its Jewish Quarter, where the winding cobblestone streets are still very similar to how they were 500 years ago, before the explusion of Spain’s Jewish population in 1492. If you would like to learn more, you can visit the excellent Museum of Jewish History (open 10am – 6pm Tue – Sat, and 10am – 2pm Mon and Sun).
Girona city walls: The current city walls date back to the 14th century, and provide stunning views over Girona and the surrounding countryside, all the way to the snowy peaks of the Pyrenees! You can access the walls from Els Jardins dels Alemanys (just behind the Cathedral), the University of Girona and Jardí de la Infància (near Plaça Catalunya). Don’t miss sunset at Torre del Llamp!
Onyar River walk: One of the most iconic images of Girona is that of the brightly-coloured houses that overlook the Onyar River. Take a walk along the riverbank, and enjoy views of both sides from one of the bridges: Pont de Pedra or Pont de les Peixateries Velles, which was designed by Gustav Eiffel. You can even visit one of the houses: Casa Masó (open for guided tours Tue – Sat), birthplace of Catalan architect Rafael Masó.
Girona Cathedral: One of the “must-sees” of Girona is the spectacular cathedral (open Mon – Sat 10am – 5pm and Sun 12pm – 5pm), which dates back to the 11th century and whose Gothic nave is the widest in the world. The steps in front of the Cathedral are a popular meeting point among locals, and recently featured as a filming location for popular TV series Game of Thrones!
Aviva’s choice: El cul de Mon (the end of the world) is a beautiful restaurant on the edge of a river with a very enjoyable terraze. Creative menu with quality ingredients that are organic and locally-sourced. Worth the short bike ride out there for a beautiful spot. They are open from 830-1030pm on Thursday night.
Restaurant Blanc: Traditional Meditarranean fare (open daily 1pm – 3:45pm/8pm – 11pm)
Restaurant Can Marqués: Locally-sourced traditional dishes (open Mon – Wed and Sat 1pm – 4pm and Thu & Fri 1pm – 4pm/8:30pm – 10:30pm)
Restaurant Normal: Popular option by the Michelin star Roca brothers (open Tue – Sun 12:30pm – 3pm/7:30pm – 10pm)
Friday September 26: Girona to Figueres
Route: 36.5 Or 34.9 OR 42.5 miles
Elevation: 2728 OR 1428 OR 3208 feet
Accommodation: Hotel Duran
***No spa at the hotel***
There are 3 choices today. 2 are the same (Gravel) route but one goes up to a scenic viewpoint (els Angels) and the other is flatter. Then, there is a purely road option as well. The description is for the gravel path with the extra hill.
Leaving Girona, you start with a gentle warm-up along quiet country lanes, heading northeast toward the Gavarres hills. After a few kilometers, the route opens onto gravel paths through vineyards and farmland, giving a first taste of the Empordà landscape.
Soon you reach Els Àngels, perched on a hilltop in the Gavarres. The sanctuary here offers panoramic views over Girona, the Pyrenees, and the coast, making it a perfect spot for a short break before continuing.
From Els Àngels, the route descends through Mediterranean forests and rolling fields, gradually entering flatter terrain toward Medinyà and Cervià de Ter. These villages are ideal for a quick stop to enjoy local pastries or a coffee along the way.
The ride continues through Colomers, a peaceful riverside village on the Ter, and then along quiet farm tracks and dirt roads through Sobrànigues. The scenery here alternates between olive groves, sunflower fields, and small forests.
Finally, the route approaches Figueres, where you can enjoy the charm of the town, stroll the historic streets, and end your ride near the famous Dalí Theatre-Museum. I highly recommend alloting some time this afternoon to visit the museum. It’s a very impressive surrealistic spot!
Click here for our Google Maps list of recommendations in Figueres.
The capital of the Alt Empordà boasts a charismatic and diverse architectural heritage, from the medieval city walls to the modernist and neo-classical structures around La Rambla.
Mesón Asador Castell 4 – Cozy, rustic eatery just a short walk from the Dalí Museum, serving hearty Catalan-Spanish fare like roast meats, paella, grilled cod, and tapas—all with friendly, personalized service.
La Taverna del Barri Vell – Charming Catalan-fusion spot tucked into the old town (Carrer Tints), offering a variety of regional dishes, seafood paella, and cozy ambiance—perfect for a relaxed dinner.
Saturday September 27: Figueres to Cadaques, the final day!
Route: 30.9 miles
Elevation: 3305 feet
Accommodation: Hotel Octavia
***No spa at the hotel. If you want a last-day massage let me know and I can find something in Cadaques.***
The day begins in Figueres, hometown of Catalan genius Salvador Dalí. Before setting off, you can explore the city or visit the Dalí Theatre-Museum if you haven’t already. Once ready, pick up your bikes from reception and start your ride heading east toward the wine country of Alt Empordà.
Your first stop is Peralada, famous for cava and wine production. Here, you can visit the Castle Museum (open Tue – Sun, 10 am – 12 pm / 3:30 pm – 5:30 pm), which features wine-making artifacts dating back to the 14th century, drop by the Bodega Castell de Peralada (open Mon – Fri, 6 am – 2 pm), and wander the medieval town center.
From Peralada, continue to Garriguella, home to the oldest vineyards in the region. We recommend stopping at the Cooperativa Agrícola de Garriguella (wine bar open daily from 9 am; guided tours available by prior reservation). This traditional winery, operating since 1963, offers excellent-value bottles, classic Catalan varietals, and a small cultural history museum.
Just beyond Garriguella, you can take a short detour to Celler Espelt (open Tue – Sat 10 am – 2 pm / 4 pm – 7 pm; Mon 9 am – 4 pm; Sun 10 am – 2 pm), a modern organic winery with gorgeous mountain views. Drop by the wine bar for a glass of wine and a snack, or book a guided tour in advance.
Next, you’ll arrive in Vilajuïga, famous for its natural mineral water and prehistoric dolmens. Top up your bottles at the village water fountain, and if you’re hungry, stop at El Racó de la Vila a Vilajuïga (open daily from 8 am) for a snack or early lunch.
From here, the road climbs toward the abbey of Sant Pere de Rodes, a stunning 9th-century monastery overlooking the sea (open Tue – Sun, 10 am – 5:30 pm). The views from the top are well worth the effort.
After the abbey, enjoy a scenic descent to Port de la Selva, a charming whitewashed fishing village framed by the sea and hills. If you’d like to stop for a meal, we recommend Restaurante La Tina (open daily 1 pm – 3 pm).
The final climb of the day takes you up to Sa Perafita through the rugged Cap de Creus Natural Park. At the top, reward yourself with a vineyard breakfast—or in this case, an afternoon snack—at Celler Martín Faixó, complete with spectacular views, a guided tour, and a tasting.
From Perafita, it’s a smooth downhill ride into Cadaqués, one of the most beautiful coastal towns in Catalonia, famous for its whitewashed houses, cobbled streets, and connection to Dalí. Your cycling journey ends here, with time to explore the town, relax by the sea, or enjoy a well-earned dinner in one of its excellent restaurants.
Click here for our Google Maps list of recommendations in Cadaqués.
Cadaqués is a charming fishing port made famous for its association with Catalan painter Dalí. Here, you can visit the Salvador Dalí House in Portlligat (open 10:30am – 5:10pm, prior booking required), and admire the seafront modernist buildings, built by local residents who made their fortune in Cuba, and inspired by Cuban architectural styles.
The star of the local cuisine is, of course, seafood! There are a range of excellent options available to enjoy fresh seafood with stunning views of the Mediterranean.
One of our favourites is Restaurant Es Baluard (open Wed – Mon, 1pm – 3:30pm/8pm – 10:30pm).
For a special meal, high-end option Compartir Cadaqués (open Tue – Sat, 1pm – 3pm/8pm – 10pm, prior reservation required) serves up innovative shared dishes ina stunning setting.
For a high-quality, laid-back meal, we recommend beachfront Restaurant El Viatge (open daily 1pm – 3pm/8pm – 10pm) or Cadaq’s (open daily 12pm – 4pm/7:30pm – 10pm).
Sunday September 28: Departure
After breakfast, you will agree on a place where Franco can leave you to take the train to Barcelona.
I see 2 viable options:
We hope that you’ve enjoyed your great bike tour and that Mallorca will be relaxing and enjoyable!
